Cooking and eating
For some people, to live is to eat. I am one of those people.
I live a "food centered life". So, I have
written down my Cookbook reviews and a few
menus from past meals.
And, I have written down a few creations .
First, a quote from Roger Vergé:
"To cook well, one need only be a gourmand, a hungry
appreciator of flavors. Rather, I should probably say, one
must be a gourmand to be a good cook. A recipe is like
written music. One can follow it very exactly and yet
achieve an unintelligent, mechanical, or mediocre
result... The recipe is only music on the page it is you
who will make it sing. To cook is to create, to marry ingredients
as poets marry words, to play chords with flavors, to invent new and
subtle harmonies." Roger Vergé, translated from "Ma Cuisine du Soleil"
(c) 1978.
Pictures of feasts
Menus
This was cooked at the end of January, 1999 while fluffy snow
was falling outside.
- Oyster soup (Picoline)
- Home made olive bread (Maglieri)
- Veal with capers and horseradish (Senderens)
- Three grain pilaf (Union Square, Michael Romano)
- Steamed Asparagus
- Vanilla Ice cream in a tuile with Strawberry and Rhubarb sauces
The wine was a California sparkler, not too bad.
This is a meal I cooked in early June of 1999 (before it really
got hot):
- Soft Shell Crabs with a spicy carrot sauce (Union Square)
- Lamb tenderloin with a parsley cream and sauteed garlic mushrooms (Giradet)
- Tossed green salad with mustard vinagrette and garlic croutons
- Carmelized berries with a lemon creme (Senderens)
Wines were a Babcock Sauvignon Blanc and Sean Thackery's Pleaides VI
Here's a meal from the Union Square Cookbook (I recommend it
without hesitation and enthusiastically). Here is the menu:
- Home baked Italian style bread
- Roast duck with lemon and thyme (accompanied by a wine vinegar sauce)
- Parsnip pancakes
- Salad
- Pear crisp with vanilla ice cream
Wines were a Ridge Zin meritage and a Belvedere dessert wine.
For Thanksgiving 1995, we had:
- Fresh Turkey
- Cornbread stuffing with pancetta and pine nuts
- Oyster bread stuffing
- Yeast biscuits
- Peanut soup
- Carrot and parsnip puree
- Broccoli and leek puree
- Cranberry orange relish
- Salad
- Pumpkin custard pie
- Chocolate cake
Wines were: Pol Roger (N.V.) champagne, Foxen 1992 Chardonnary and
Ridge Zinfadel.
New Year's, 1997 (served 28 December)
All dishes from Charlie Palmer (Aureole)
- Butternut Squash Soup ( 1992 Cronin Chard - wine of the evening )
- Composed Salad of Shrimp and Couscous (1996 St. Clair Sauv. Blanc (NZ) )
- Roasted Cod with Parma Ham and fresh Sage (1995 Martinborough Chard (NZ) )
- Salad
- Grilled and Roasted Vegetable Terrine (1992 Whitehall Lane Cab Reserve)
- Warm Apple Pudding (1994 Selaks Ice Wine (Reisling), NZ )
- Crunchy flourless Chocolate Cake (1988 Coturri Zin - completely corked)
- Assorted cheeses
- 1990 Mountadam Pinot Noir Chardonnay Sparkling Wine
The Ides of March, 1998
All recipes from "Cuisine of Venice and surrounding Northern regions"
- Primo: Gnocchi alla Romana
- Secondo: Fettine di Manzo Saporite ("Tasty slices of beef")
- Dolce: Budino di Savoiardi e Cioccolato (Chocolate and Ladyfingers pudding)
- Vino: Maculan Brentino 1988 (Breganze)
Cookbook reviews
Cookbooks can be great fun if the writer has a sense of humor and
an unerring sense of what is required and what is not. Be that as it
may, the overall quality of cookbooks varies from dreadful to superb.
Here are some review of cookbooks at home:
- Julia Child - The Art of French Cooking
- This is truly a classic and what's more, it's surprisingly easy to
cook out of. Of course, Julia's droll humor is found throughout and it
comes complete with wine recommendations. I find the simple recipes
to be delightful.
- Jean George VonGerichten
- In spite of the fact that Jo-Jo is one of my favorite chefs alive,
his cookbook leaves much to be desired. The recipes can yield fabulous
results and yet others are fundamentally lacking in needed instructions.
If you watch him live, you will see how much he leaves out.
- Michael Romano - The Union Square Cookbook
- What a pleasure it is to cook from this tome. Every dish has been
tested and what's more, easily yields fine results. So easy to please
and yet so delicious. I recommend this book without hesitation as
a way to taste what's in New York's most popular restuarant.
This book is now being remaindered, so don't pay full price.
- Michael Romano - The Union Square Cookbook #2
- It's a hard act to follow volume one (above). And so, I regret to say
the recipes here just aren't quite up to the usual Union Square quality.
That doesn't say they're not good, but it's not as failsafe as the first edition.
- Marcella Hazan - Classic Italian Cooking
- Marcella Hazan is our doyen of Italian cooking; mind you, she
is from Venezia, so her emphasis is not on red sauces but on white
and other sauces. Her recipes are concise, easy to follow and
produce great results. All of her cookbooks are highly
recommended.
- Nick Maglieri - How to Bake
- An amazing book - so far every recipe just works. Easy,
simple to follow and it works. He has a new chocolate book too.
I'm not sure the title is accurate it's not so much how to as
"do this".
The published Morrow once had a series entitles "The 3 Star
Crefs of France"; these were translations from the French series
published by Lafont. I own all but one. They are quirky books
lacking in structure but they have many ideas. Here is a list
of the titles:
- The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean and Pierre Troisgros
- Surprisingly classical.
- The Cuisine of Freddy Giradet
- I like Giradet's cooking; he has a certain adventure that comes
through. FYI: he is retired.
- Michel Guèrard's Cuisine Gourmande
- It's hard to believe that Gue'rard did a gourmand cookbook.
But he did.
- Michel Guèrard's Cuisine Minceur
- I have tried a number of recipes in this book and they were terrible.
Of course, maybe it's just Cuisine Minceaur. Best recipe I found
was for a salad dressing.
- The Three-star Recipes of Alain Senderens
- Senderens is also an interesting cook with varying takes on classic
recipes.
- Roger Vergé's Cuisine of the South of France
- Vergé had a 3* (was demoted, gasp) and this reflects him at
his peak. There is a much more glossy book ... but this isn't it.
File last written on Wed Jan 10 12:15:49 EST 2018
e-mail: mark.kahrs at gmail daht com
home page:http://www.kahrs.us/~mark